Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Kitchen Screen Door

So, today's project was...
Finishing the bathroom (that will be a separate entry, when its actually done)

Today's new project became...
Fixing the stupid screen door in my kitchen!


My landlords put a nice unfinished screen door in the kitchen for giving the space some air. Thanks!
Unfortunately, the door is not on hinges. Instead, the door must be picked up, placed in the door frame, and attached with bolt locks on either end into holes they drilled into the frame each time I want to use it.
Door goes to street-front balcony/outdoor stairs that I love :)
Current set-up - requires picking up the door from behind the kitchen "island" where it was being stored (cluttering wall space all the while), placing it on top of the step up, and fastening locks. Had to be removed again to be able to access the outside.


So, today, I went to home depot and purchased 2.5" non-mortise hinges (2pk) for $2.27. I also purchased a 31pc drill/drive kit for my black&decker (B&D) power drill (below) - the kit was on sale for only $6.50 (originally 10.97)!!
My B&D donated by the masterful home flipping ex... I would give back an engagement ring if we'd been engaged but not this baby. Life SO much easier...
 The drill kit will make life easier whenever screwing anything into walls or doors. Before, I was using a drywall screw, which, as the home depot guy confirmed today, is not ideal because you generally want to pre-drill a hole that is actually smaller than the screw you'll be using, and my drywall screws were all 1 size (sharp, but 1 size). The reason you want to pre-drill into wall is to make your life easier, the reason you want to pre-drill into wood is to avoid cracking the wood, based on my experience. The other use for the drill bits will be for any time you want to put a drywall anchor into the wall, for which I was using the simple phillips head bit for my B&D - not wide enough, not deep enough.


Hinges, no big deal right?  Wrong. Realized it was unfinished wood and I could paint it white too! Also, forgot to charge my B&D overnight so this for the meantime...

Painting the door: Ideal order of things (didn't follow this exactly...)

  1. Drink water all the time - lots of vasovagal action with all the squatting and rising.
  2. Clean the door/remove dust
  3. Unscrew deadbolts
  4. Fill holes with putty 
  5. Tape the screen part of the door along the edges of the frame, try to wedge tape under the frame where possible. I tried just following along where I paint with a folded piece of magazine back, but it would get paint on it, which came off on the screen as I went
    1. Tip: tape doesn't stick to the screen very well (duh) so be careful when applying & moving where overlapping (you will want to overlap at least half an inch or else paint will get through cracks) because you will pull the whole thing off
  6. Paint the inner molding of the wood with a small angle brush first (worth splurging for a nice one, it will last and avoid making it streaky).
    1. Tip: Don't overload with paint, and go slow and steady when at the top, or else it will drip on the screen and its hard to clean off b/c its textured.
    2. Pet peeve: sloppy drippy corners. Go over it when the brush is somewhat dry to smooth out the drops.
  7. Paint the big parts of the frame with a rolling sponge brush (4x3/8") where possible, and preferably before the spill over from the molding edge to avoid texture. I specifically got the white kind that says "for smooth finishes." I didn't wait for the putty to dry. This project it not high priority.
  8.  This will require multiple coats unfortunately, even while using a paint with primer, because as the wood absorbs the paint, it will be uneven and look pine-y.
  9. Have to paint both sides of the door, because it will open into the kitchen. ugh. this is taking longer than I thought (as always). Wrap the brushes in a plastic bag so they don't dry out and come back in 1 hr when dry per instructions on paint can. 





I hate the goops in the inner corner - they dry and look messy and lumpy

1 hr dry time 2 hr recoat time meant 1 hr -> flip door, recoat --> 1 hr --> flip door, recoat


Back side was easier to do, mostly just used a roller - less molding. Used an angle brush for the inner side of the frame (perpendicular to the screen).

Next steps:
Kitchen cabinet handle
  1. Mark where to attach hinges
  2. Debate attaching handles that match door vs. kitchen cabinet handles (right)
  3. Flip door in 1 hour from painting and paint the other side, same order - tape, then molding, then sponge brush.







Budget:
Hinges - $2.27 (2 pack)
Drive kit - $6.50 (31 pieces)
Half sponge brush - $3.97 (2pack)

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